When we finally make it to Baga Sarahan, it is dark. We reach the end of the relentless incline and the road finally levels out. We pass through an open ground and on the horizon, I can still see the outlines of the mountains that surround the valley on all sides. Jatin parks our vehicle under a towering tree, next to the other vehicles. We unload our bags, light our torches and follow the path leading to the only source of light in the pitch dark valley. After a brief walk, from behind the cover of trees and foliage, emerges a set of cozy-looking cottages and an inviting bonfire to the right. We are greeted by a cheerful host and after dropping the bags in a cottage, we take a chair by the bonfire. Tea is served along with fried snacks. Soon the alcohol bottles surface – multiple Old monks and a couple of bottles of whiskey. In the glow and warmth of the bonfire, and a nonchalance induced by alcohol, the worries of the day are forgotten, and the party begins in earnest. On one side, tales of old adventures are being recited, and on the other, a spontaneous dance breaks out. The best dancer on the floor – by some distance – is Gaurav – the member of our expedition from Delhi, driving in the Ford Endeavour. Completely uninhibited and thoroughly entertaining, Gaurav leads and the crowd follows amid loud cheers. Whatever his dance lacks in agility, it more than makes up in passion. So much so, that the gyrations struggle to keep pace with his emotions. The result is a dance that is awkward and graceful at the same time. As spectators, we oscillate between laughter and admiration.
Around midnight, the party ends and everyone retreats to their rooms. But the sky is clear, brilliant and irresistible. So I decide to join the 2 photographers, Bikash and Shivam, and attempt some night-photography. We borrow the keys of a couple of cars, carry torches, cameras and a tripod and set out to capture the sky. We spend an exciting 2 hours trying to capture a faint winter milky way, light painting messages and illuminating parked cars, until the clouds decide to disrupt our photo shoot and we are forced to call it a night. Clad in 3 layers of clothing, snow boots, a woollen cap and gloves, I return to the cottage. Despite all the gear, my hands are cold and feet numb. Bikash knocks on the kitchen door to ask for hot water and we are greeted by a smiling housekeeper who is standing barefoot and is dressed in just a cotton shirt and a sleeveless sweater!
In the morning, I am woken up by the excited chatter of early risers engaged in a loud conversation with our cheerful host. When I step out of the room, the sun is just peeking out from behind a mountain. We had arrived at Baga Sarahan just after dark the previous night and while we knew we were surrounded by mountains, the sight that awaits me in the morning is more imposing than I had imagined in the night. Behind the cottage from where I emerged, is a majestic mountain covered with tall, proud deodar trees and outlining this mountain from behind is a snow-covered peak shining bright in the morning light. The sky is a deep vivid blue and the air is fresh and saturated with the fragrance of pine. On the lawn of the property is a sleeping puppy huddled inside the hind legs of his mother. He sleeps with his eyes sealed shut, indifferent to both – the loud chatter that woke me and sublime beauty of the landscape. Having slept for less than 5 hours, I envy his careless slumber of contentment and ignorance.
