It’s a clear moonless night. The sky is laden with stars that sparkle like diamonds. We are on a nearly deserted road, surrounded on all 4 sides by imposing snow covered peaks, even the outlines of which were lost a while ago to the pitch-dark December night. The altitude is over 10,000 feet and the outside temperature is a bone-chilling -10 degree Celsius. We are 20 kms away from the breath-taking village of Nako in the Hangrang Valley of Himachal Pradesh. A Ford Endeavour and Mahindra Thar face each other on the straight stretch of the curving mountain road and their lights pierce through the darkness, creating a small island of light. The doors of the Ford Endeavour are open like wings and the sound of Himachali folk music echoes across the open valley. From the island of light, extend long dancing shadows of men and women – careless and merry – indifferent to the baffled looks of the sparse and occasional travellers passing by.
For 3 hours our convoy of 10 4×4 vehicles has been stranded on this remote road as the GREF (General Reserve Engineer Force) of the BRO (Border Road Organization) works painstakingly to clear the road that has been temporarily put out of service by an avalanche of large rocks that came tumbling down the mountainside, after a controlled dynamite explosion threw up a surprise. It would have been convenient to sit in the comfort of our warm cars but what’s the point of going on an adventure if you aren’t going to embrace it when it seeks you out? So, we dance to the tune of strange music that is understood by few but enjoyed by all. And in the trance that ensues there is neither darkness, nor cold, nor danger… only untethered joy.
