We reach Rekong Peo just as the sun is setting. Most workshops have already shut but we manage to find one which is open. The mechanic does a super short test drive of the vehicle and confirms the diagnosis – the clutch plate is burned out and needs to be replaced. But he says he can only do it in the morning as it is already late and, in any case, he will have to procure the clutch plate in the morning from an associate of his. He recommends that we leave the vehicle behind because the climb to Kalpa will be impossible for the Gypsy to navigate. But the gritty Gypsy has done over 200 kms in its current state so we dismiss his warning with a careless wave. We reach Rekong Peo’s market, which we are pleasantly surprised to discover, is quite elaborate. For the first time in more than a week, we encounter a traffic light and we are both fascinated by it as if it were a curious novelty.
After crossing the market, we take the turn towards Kalpa and the steep climb takes us both by surprise. It is a much steeper climb than any we have encountered in the day and there is one narrow hairpin turn after another. Once again, the Gypsy is driving in the first gear and the engine temperature begins to climb. Jatin echoes my thought when he says that it would be a shame if the Gypsy broke down on this last slope. Another 20 minutes into the climb, it is evident that we will need to stop. So, we pick a wide turn and park in the middle of a dense deodar forest. Jatin says, “If only there was a shop here, we could alteast grab some tea and a snack” and I nod in agreement. We wait in the forest for 10 mins and then Jatin steps out of the car. He rushes back in, starts the car and begins to drive. I am puzzled because the engine temperature is still close to the red zone. As soon as we make the next turn, a temple and a shop come into view. The little temple is locked and even its lights are turned off. But on the speakers of the temple, extremely loud bhajans are playing. The shop next to the temple is open! We look at each other and break into a spontaneous laugh. For 10 mins we had been waiting in the cold pitch-dark forest hoping for a snack and here was a shop just a turn ahead!
We get down and walk up the shop. Out in the open, the music is so loud that the teenager manning the shop can’t hear us even as we shout. Finally, he sees us waving and comes closer to where we stand. Jatin asks him if he serves tea. He confirms that they normally do but he couldn’t do it at this time. There is nothing exciting to eat there either so it’s a bit of a disappointment. I go to the car and pull out a pack of chips which we share. The three of us stand there listening to the blaring music for a few minutes and then Jatin asks the young boy with obvious sarcasm. “Can you increase the volume any further?” The teenager misses the sarcasm and replies in earnest, “Yes I can”. Jatin continues, “Then might as well raise it. Maybe then it will reach the Gods!” I try to hold back the laughter, but it’s impossible.